The South of Spain: Córdoba, Granada, and Seville

After a wonderful, train station farewell from our family in Spain, we were soon on our way to southern Spain. Here we would spend the next six days (two nights for each stop) in Córdoba, Granada, and Seville. During the ride we noticed how quickly the landscape began to change. Soon gone were the orchards and Madrid skyline only to be replaced by arid landscape full of plateaus, olive trees, and sandy red dirt. It was then that we realized how special the rest of our week would be.

Córdoba

Similar to Morocco, the old town was separated from the new by large gates and high walls. On one side you had a progressive city bustling with cars and commerce, and on the other, an area seemingly frozen in time. Corridor after corridor of white stucco walls presented a maze-like effect as we entered the old Jewish quarter and got to our hotel, the NH Amistad. As there are strict regulations for who can drive in this part of town, the alleys were extremely pedestrian friendly!

Being so centrally located made it easy to reach everything we wanted to see. For example, just three minutes from our hotel we turned a corner and were greeted with this:

The Mezquita was definitely the crowning highlight of Córdoba with it’s incredible views inside and out. It is a clear example of the mix of Spanish and Moorish cultures because a Catholic church sits right in the middle of what once used to be an Islamic mosque. We got to go inside the following day and capture the photos below. This was a place I remember learning about in Spanish class and I couldn’t believe we were seeing it in real life!

Nearby also sits The Alcazar of the Christian Kings, which was the vacation palace for when royalty would visit Córdoba. I think our favorite areas were the splendid gardens, which seemed quite green in contrast with the desert all around.

Additionally it would not be a complete trip without a journey across the Roman bridge both during the day and at night!

Córdoba also had it’s fair share of nightlife and food. The patio culture is very strong here; almost every building had a patio of some sort to enjoy the fine Andalusian sky. We dined a few times on traditional Flamequin (Serrano ham wrapped in pork loin medallions breaded and deep fried) though we preferred the one served with melted cheddar cheese. This should not surprise you at all.

Another typical dish is Salmorejo, which is a cold soup similar to gazpacho but with a richer consistency. And of course we ate plenty of tapas!

Lastly, for our second night, we decided to visit the Hammam al Andalus Spa to relax in the various hot pools of water and get massages to send us off on the right foot. Note that this hammam was definitely more comfortable than Juliette’s visit in Morocco! The interior was beautifully crafted with moorish architecture and designed to be peaceful and calming. What a great way to wrap up Córdoba before reuniting with some friends the next day in Granada!

Granada

We caught a bus the next day, checked into our Airbnb in the heart of Granada, and were soon joined by some good friends from Austin, Graham and Laura! During the planning of this trip we discovered that we would all be in the same place at about the same time and coordinated to do Granada and Seville together and stay in larger Airbnbs. It was going to be a great four days to come  full of sights, food, companionship, and a few shenanigans!

Our first mission was a tapas crawl of sorts where we wandered to two different places for drinks and delicious food. Juliette and I also had a not-so-delicious experience later that night when we ate some terrible churros! How do you screw up churros in Spain?!

Now the main focus of our visit to Granada was to visit the famed Alhambra –– an incredible palace used by both Muslim and Christian royalty throughout the ages. We toured it the next day after breakfast with a guide where we learned how to tell the difference between a Christian fountain and a Muslim one, how to identify sour orange trees, among many other interesting facts about the complex.

However, the showstopper was over lunch with this view from El Huerto de Juan Rana. It was simply breathtaking.

That afternoon we adventured in the cave house area of Sacramonte, stopped for some much needed coffee, and prepared for the evening to come. First was a dinner at Cueva de Aladin where we ate some great Arabic food, including one set menu that Graham and Laura ordered which included ALL THE TAGINES. We ate and then attended a flamenco show at La Alborea Flamenco that just blew us away. The rhythm, skill, and passion on display was just stunning. How can anyone move their feet that fast?? This made for the quickest hour ever!

To polish off a fun night, we ended with (good) churros this time and then another drink and platter of embutidos (Spanish charcuterie) at Bodegas Castaneda before calling it quits. We would all be off to Seville the next day!

Seville

What a great place to cap off our travels through Spain! Seville was the perfect mix of Spanish charm and historical significance with plenty of great food to boot. Again we were all staying in a beautiful, centrally located Airbnb, which made it super convenient to walk around. This enabled a very laid-back approach to the city where we made many decisions on a whim, especially about where to eat!

For instance, the gelato gods were against us the first day as we tried two different places which were closed for the season. However a nighttime dinner at La Azotea, an uneventful orange race down the river, and a late night stroll led us to Amorino Gelateria that happened to be right by our apartment!

Our only scheduled activity was a walking tour the following day, which introduced us to the most historic sights in Seville. I think the highlight for us all was the Plaza Espanya — was absolutely amazing!

We found delicious traditional Sevillian dishes for lunch at Uno de Delicias near the Tower of Gold including beef cheek, gazpacho, and tortilla. Juliette also ordered a giant plate of melted provolone!

Being Thanksgiving day, we retired that afternoon to watch the Macy’s parade as is our tradition. But instead of traditional turkey, we opted for a good ol’ tapas crawl! We shared croquettes, jamon, paella, calimari, and many other bites with the wonderful company of Graham and Laura. Not ready to call it a night, we even closed down the EME rooftop bar, which had an incredible view of the Cathedral! Even though we couldn’t be home for the holiday, it was a blessing to have shared it with good friends (until 2 AM).

Though technically a travel day, we all got to climb the Seta de Sevilla tower the next day for some fun views of the architecture and city. Juliette even won our last round of cards on the upper deck! A nice lunch of paellas and pizza later at Dona Francisquita and some goodbyes and we were soon (but sadly) leaving Spain in the rear view.

Next we travel to magical Iceland! But stay tuned for a food post and reflections on beautiful Spain.

-GP