Keswick, England: A Writer’s Paradise
“Italy made my heart swell with the gushing, romantic feelings you experience when falling in love. England allowed my soul to settle and, simply, to be.” – September 28, 2017
As we sat on the hill of Crow Park, looking out over Derwent Water lake, we almost couldn’t believe our eyes. The ripples danced across the surface, moving in every direction with seemingly no rhyme or reason. The blanket of pillowy clouds gracefully kissed the tops of the mountains. The pockets of light blue sky peaked out between them and faded away in the blink of an eye. The glow of orange and pink sunlight streaked its way across the sky, adding a hint of joyful warmth. All the while, a large group of ducks and geese were making a ruckus near the dock, like a group of old men who have finished their day’s work and are meeting up for a night of revelry. It was all almost too idyllic, too spectacularly perfect to take in all at once.
Luckily, we had 2 beautiful days to explore this little piece of paradise in the Lake District. After a day of driving and a late-night arrival, we were more than ready to take our first morning slow. We awoke to clanking sounds from the cafe kitchen below us, and decided that was the best place to start. The cafe/bar/B&B was a cute little establishment on the corner of the main street. Housed in an old brick building, the inside had that industrial-chic vibe that would fit in perfectly in Austin. They had a decent selection of breakfast foods and coffee — we both indulged in a healthy dose of avocado toast and sausage. And the best part was that it was just a few minutes walking from the Hope Garden and the lake.
We spent the first half of the day walking the trails around the lake (maybe 1/3 of the entire hike). We passed fields of grazing sheep, walked through tree-covered pathways, relaxed on the rocky water banks, and thoroughly enjoyed watching some of the happiest puppies in the world run in and out of the water.
We spent the second half of the day in town and at The Lakes Distillery, which was located about 15 minutes outside of town. We were excited to see a street market set in the middle of the main road, with vendors selling everything from handmade jewelry to hog sandwiches and decadent desserts. We always love to peruse street markets, even if we don’t buy anything, because we get a glimpse into the lives of the locals.
Before we headed out of town for a distillery tour, we refueled with afternoon tea at The Wild Strawberry. Yes, it’s exactly what you’re imagining: the cutest little restaurant that looks like a grandma’s house, complete with mismatched antique tables and armchairs, fireplaces, and a cozy nook under the stairs (which is where we sat).
The scones were heavenly, the clotted cream was so good we almost just ate it with a spoon, and the tea was perfect. The crumpet, however, was not our favorite — it was like a spongy English muffin with almost no taste. But, hey, at least we tried it!
We were now properly fueled for the scenic drive to The Lakes Distillery. This is a tiny distillery in the middle of the countryside, set back off the main road, nestled among the trees. Since it was later in the day, we lucked out with a private tour and got to sample their gin, vodka (both of which they distill on site), and their blended whisky (which they blend, but don’t distill, themselves.) This distillery opened in 2015 and, by law, you can’t call a spirit “whisky” until it has aged for at least 3 years. So, they will be releasing their first single malt whisky in 2018.
Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to take photos inside the distillery, so we only have an outside shot of the complex. It is a beautiful property and the distillery’s story and product are great, so we highly recommend a stop here!
We wrapped up our first night by returning to the hill with the lake view at which we started the day. We sat in the damp grass for about an hour, just breathing in the clean, crisp air, taking in the view, and writing. It was like a dream — a lovely, soul-cleansing dream that you don’t want to end. Everything in the world just felt right and good.
With full hearts and calm minds, we headed back into town for hearty dinner at a pub just a few doors down from our B&B and an early bedtime so that we could start all over the next day.
Day 2 was even slower than day 1, which was perfectly okay with us. This town was made for easy mornings and slower paces. We started with breakfast at an al fresco cafe, then spent the rest of our time meandering through the small town center, shopping, and dreaming of our upcoming adventure in snowy Scandinavia as we walked through all the mountain and hiking gear shops. In case you couldn’t tell, this town was also made for people who love to hike.
After that, we headed back down to the lake and, because of a sudden rainstorm, we spent our final hours hunkered down in the cafe right next to the lake-side theater and wrote a handful of postcards. Sitting there in that cafe, watching the rain pour down, catching a glimpse of the lake between the trees…everything in the world just felt right again. It felt like that was exactly where we needed to be.
In our two days in Keswick, it felt like every ounce of weight had lifted from our minds and we could just think and write freely. We both felt as if the air still contained those gentle whispers of inspiration from all the other writers who had traveled, worked, and lived there before us. It was an incredible feeling!
Something deep inside knows that I’ll return here someday. Hopefully, to write the book(s) I’ve been dreaming of. I’ll just need a cozy cabin next to the lake and a cuddly (but quiet) cat.
For now, though, we say goodbye to England and hello to some new, amazing adventures in Scotland. Stay tuned!
Hugs from Ireland,
Juliette